October 2007
I have grown to dislike Tana a lot.
Maybe this is completely unfounded, but I have spent a lot of time there, none of it particularly fruitful and not half as functional as I would have liked.
It is expensive and oozes hassle and there really isn’t anything to see.
Tried to go for a walk once, but found the only lake, which was surrounded largely by unsavouries and exhaust fumes, a let down. I feel trapped, like I should be able to get things sorted and organized, but everything ends up more of a mess and I seem to have spent more days that I would care to think about sorting nothing.
In Tana’s defence it might not be Tana at all, but the functions I am trying to accomplish. I blame Air Madagascar for much of this. It seems to take them 2 hours to see you, they are then ultimately unhelpful and rude and send you off only to not get an answer and have to return the next day and go through it all over again. It isn’t even as if they are a cheap airline, they are ridiculously expensive for the distance, routes and capacity of the planes. And the monopoly. So they are the only way you can really travel coast to coast and always have to go through Tana. Hotels as well, seem always to be busy, there never seem enough rooms available. This trip alone we have had to change room nearly every night and get thrown out of the hotel the following day despite our patronage for 4 nights (based on fullness not raucous behaviour on our part).
I will be pleased to leave Tana and all that it stands for in my head, however, prejudiced it might be.
Loving the ice cream though, sooooooooo goooooooooood.
Thursday, 18 October 2007
Madagascar: Tsingy-me Tsingy-you
October 2007
Long distance, but so worth it.
Red track towards the baobabs (tall species rather than the short fatties we had in Andava). On and on and on towards the river, an hour crossing down the Tsiribinha river on the ferry. Hours later crossing another river with a ramp at 45degrees, we have 4 goes at getting up it!
Into the Tsingy, grey limestone pinnacles. Walking through the cracks in the Tsingy with rock towering above and all sides. Great to interact with the nature in as much as climbing up and down, walking through, and reaching a view point at the top means that you can.
The occasional lemur making its cry and leaping as they do, if you are lucky, and they aren’t just sitting in the tops of trees eating in the same spot.
More hours spent in a 4x4 to reach more tsingy of the ‘grande’ variety, and then on our way out.
A pirogue down the Manambolo canyon, sunrise cruise, gorgeous colours displayed on the rocks and pretty little caves in the river banks to explore as well. Loads of birds (not sure what they are, but they are lovely anyway).
Sunset at Baobab Avenue with all the other tourists, but a calming place when the sun has set and everyone runs back to Morondava and we head to Kirindy National Park for a slow night walk and sleep in the calm tranquil forest. More lemurs, a few chameleons, and a 4x4 back to Morondava to catch a flight to terrible Tana.
Long distance, but so worth it.
Red track towards the baobabs (tall species rather than the short fatties we had in Andava). On and on and on towards the river, an hour crossing down the Tsiribinha river on the ferry. Hours later crossing another river with a ramp at 45degrees, we have 4 goes at getting up it!
Into the Tsingy, grey limestone pinnacles. Walking through the cracks in the Tsingy with rock towering above and all sides. Great to interact with the nature in as much as climbing up and down, walking through, and reaching a view point at the top means that you can.
The occasional lemur making its cry and leaping as they do, if you are lucky, and they aren’t just sitting in the tops of trees eating in the same spot.
More hours spent in a 4x4 to reach more tsingy of the ‘grande’ variety, and then on our way out.
A pirogue down the Manambolo canyon, sunrise cruise, gorgeous colours displayed on the rocks and pretty little caves in the river banks to explore as well. Loads of birds (not sure what they are, but they are lovely anyway).
Sunset at Baobab Avenue with all the other tourists, but a calming place when the sun has set and everyone runs back to Morondava and we head to Kirindy National Park for a slow night walk and sleep in the calm tranquil forest. More lemurs, a few chameleons, and a 4x4 back to Morondava to catch a flight to terrible Tana.
Madagascar: Leave the Andava-land
October 2007
No tears, but sadness that lies deep within the soul.
Memories that will haunt for a long time and will continue sporadically erupting.
A walk to remember: Coco Beach, my hut, everyone who has helped me there and laughed at me for acting out what I cannot say in French or Malagasy.
The Blue Ventures ‘Nosy Cao’ and ‘Bat Cave’ where much functional time was spent.
The views, the steps, the generator shed, the beach, the village.
The people of Andavadoaka ‘salama jenny’.
Friends in the village, all the local staff, happy to help and chat.
Visiting a friend who just had a baby and the grandmother taking 10mins to wake the heavily sleeping baby, so I could say hello/goodbye.
A final swim.
Breathe it in.
Dawn.
Gone.
No tears, but sadness that lies deep within the soul.
Memories that will haunt for a long time and will continue sporadically erupting.
A walk to remember: Coco Beach, my hut, everyone who has helped me there and laughed at me for acting out what I cannot say in French or Malagasy.
The Blue Ventures ‘Nosy Cao’ and ‘Bat Cave’ where much functional time was spent.
The views, the steps, the generator shed, the beach, the village.
The people of Andavadoaka ‘salama jenny’.
Friends in the village, all the local staff, happy to help and chat.
Visiting a friend who just had a baby and the grandmother taking 10mins to wake the heavily sleeping baby, so I could say hello/goodbye.
A final swim.
Breathe it in.
Dawn.
Gone.
Madagascar: Every Day Joys, Every Day Turmoils
Still September 2007
Morning:
Joy: waking up in the morning sun just in time for breakfast
Turmoil: Being woken up by the goats, chickens or a 4x4 running its engine behind your hut and gassing you at 5am .
Breakfast:
Joy: fresh bread and plenty of egg
Turmoil: Rice cakes, a mild appreciation first time around, but you don’t even want to waste your condiments on trying to make them taste better. Just condiment on its own is the way to go, preferably Nutella, though a few have been know to go straight for the marmite.
Dive:
Joy: your favourite BCD, weight belt are just waiting for you to use
Turmoil: no BCD in your size, all the weights have been used, and only the heavy white tanks are left
Joy: leave in TsonTso boat with Thomas as driver, all goes well have a fantastic dive.
Turmoil: Get Aloalo boat with big waves on a far far journey to find out that the waves are too big on the dive site to go it. Alternatively, someone has forgotten the Surface Marker Buoy, and the dive is aborted before you hit the water. Or you are at a great dive site and your buddy cant equalise so the dive is aborted for you both.
Joy: return from a dive to find the water is still on and the sun has been warming it nicely.
Turmoil: no water left, late for lunch, all good food is gone.
Food:
Joy: fish boc boc (small pieces of battered fish), beetroot, potato salad, grilled fish, fish or zebu kebabs, mashed potato and chips, soup.
Turmoil: skinny chicken (especially the neck), squid (not so good), prawns (especially bad for me, but others seem to love it). Fruit for dessert (a banana) after the same for 4 nights in a row.
Evening:
Joy: THB beer and peanuts watching the sunset
Turmoil: A rubbish long staff meeting, with arguments and annihilations
People:
Joy: Hanging out with the local lads, laughing, being generally cheeky and having fun
Turmoil: Having to instil the rules and protocols that international staff break all the time making me the bad guy again.
Night Night:
Joy: Being ready for bed before the lights go out at 10pm
Turmoil: Working late again and forget the time and end up lightless in the loo when the water has run out and no toilet paper.
Exercise:
Joy: swimming 2km across beautiful turtle beach and back, with a relatively calm sea and decent visibility to watch all the sea grass swaying with the waves.
Turmoil: having no time for anything other than work work work, and never able to get away to enjoy everything else Andavadoaka has to offer.
Transport:
Joy: Volunteers leaving and having a couple of days without having to be at everyone’s beck and call every minute of the day.
Turmoil: a camion journey to Tulear or return that doesn’t go well and involves no sleep and stressful planning for 48hours to ensure the safe return of volunteers and staff to Coco Beach.
Communication:
Joy: receiving e-mails from friends and family keeping me in the loop, love and support
Turmoil: send and receive e-mail nights as compiling and re-distributing takes hours and many a party night have been ruined by work commitments.
Mottos:
You will learn to hate the goats, chickens, cats for waking you.
Keep the toilet doors shut, the goats eat the paper, we eat the goats, not a good circle of life.
You will try to catch the goats but you will fail.
Most injuries occur walking back from the epi-bar!
You might like diving but you will miss Andavadoaka and the local people forever.
Alefa – Lets go
Morning:
Joy: waking up in the morning sun just in time for breakfast
Turmoil: Being woken up by the goats, chickens or a 4x4 running its engine behind your hut and gassing you at 5am .
Breakfast:
Joy: fresh bread and plenty of egg
Turmoil: Rice cakes, a mild appreciation first time around, but you don’t even want to waste your condiments on trying to make them taste better. Just condiment on its own is the way to go, preferably Nutella, though a few have been know to go straight for the marmite.
Dive:
Joy: your favourite BCD, weight belt are just waiting for you to use
Turmoil: no BCD in your size, all the weights have been used, and only the heavy white tanks are left
Joy: leave in TsonTso boat with Thomas as driver, all goes well have a fantastic dive.
Turmoil: Get Aloalo boat with big waves on a far far journey to find out that the waves are too big on the dive site to go it. Alternatively, someone has forgotten the Surface Marker Buoy, and the dive is aborted before you hit the water. Or you are at a great dive site and your buddy cant equalise so the dive is aborted for you both.
Joy: return from a dive to find the water is still on and the sun has been warming it nicely.
Turmoil: no water left, late for lunch, all good food is gone.
Food:
Joy: fish boc boc (small pieces of battered fish), beetroot, potato salad, grilled fish, fish or zebu kebabs, mashed potato and chips, soup.
Turmoil: skinny chicken (especially the neck), squid (not so good), prawns (especially bad for me, but others seem to love it). Fruit for dessert (a banana) after the same for 4 nights in a row.
Evening:
Joy: THB beer and peanuts watching the sunset
Turmoil: A rubbish long staff meeting, with arguments and annihilations
People:
Joy: Hanging out with the local lads, laughing, being generally cheeky and having fun
Turmoil: Having to instil the rules and protocols that international staff break all the time making me the bad guy again.
Night Night:
Joy: Being ready for bed before the lights go out at 10pm
Turmoil: Working late again and forget the time and end up lightless in the loo when the water has run out and no toilet paper.
Exercise:
Joy: swimming 2km across beautiful turtle beach and back, with a relatively calm sea and decent visibility to watch all the sea grass swaying with the waves.
Turmoil: having no time for anything other than work work work, and never able to get away to enjoy everything else Andavadoaka has to offer.
Transport:
Joy: Volunteers leaving and having a couple of days without having to be at everyone’s beck and call every minute of the day.
Turmoil: a camion journey to Tulear or return that doesn’t go well and involves no sleep and stressful planning for 48hours to ensure the safe return of volunteers and staff to Coco Beach.
Communication:
Joy: receiving e-mails from friends and family keeping me in the loop, love and support
Turmoil: send and receive e-mail nights as compiling and re-distributing takes hours and many a party night have been ruined by work commitments.
Mottos:
You will learn to hate the goats, chickens, cats for waking you.
Keep the toilet doors shut, the goats eat the paper, we eat the goats, not a good circle of life.
You will try to catch the goats but you will fail.
Most injuries occur walking back from the epi-bar!
You might like diving but you will miss Andavadoaka and the local people forever.
Alefa – Lets go
Madagascar: A Walk Through Coco Beach to the Village of Andavadoaka:
Still September 2007
Coco Beach
Starting at the restaurant: On your left: my purple hut and all the other staff huts, whilst on the right you have the huts for other guests (stone construction still going ahead after a full year) and Coco Beach staff building with Fara, Heri and Tiuri in the front and Naina at the back, just in front of their building you have the loos (mostly working with running water now that the blue barrels have been constructed to collect pumped water twice a day).
Football Pitch
Continuing down the sand track (north) you pass the football pitch on the right, the light by the path (good satellite phone coverage point), another set of loos on your left for staff, and then the local staff huts as well (Boniface and the goats and chickens). Walking a little further will bring the generator shed on the right (at the side of the football pitch) you can cut across the football pitch to get directly to the village, but we will go via the volunteer huts today. On your left you will pass by the sand dunes and frequent signs ‘sabaka’ (hat), crème masoandra (sun cream) etc.
Volunteer Huts
At the top of the slope the 4 volunteer loos on the right and the goat tap and trough on the left, just behind the Radoko (medic) hut, 5 huts for volunteers (4 with 2 bunk beds and 1 with 2 small beds), one hut for Bic (local BV staff) and another hut for Nahuda’s family (cook at Coco Beach). All huts lean to varying degrees and there are no right angles anywhere, giving lots of character, also a number of hammocks strung up all over the place and one of the best views at Coco Beach of Half moon beach and Andavadoaka rock. At the end of all the accommodation huts is the classroom ‘Nosy Cao’ and opposite that the dive center ‘Bat Cave’ which contains two rooms partitioned for equipment and an outside covered area for kit up and down. The compressor lives at the back of the covered area and nearby a tap and a couple of blue barrels kept full for cleaning equipment.
Nosy Cao
Next to Nosy Cao is Zafi’s hut, he is the guardian (and makes the best pendants for necklaces), and behind his hut is the cliff edge, the coral slope up to the Mary statue (best location for watching the pirogue race, and where weather measurements are taken). Opposite Zafi are the precarious steps down to Andavadoaka beach (with full dive kit can seem daunting at first), on the right is the fisheries cooperative (no longer in service, but where George WCS boat driver resides), and behind that the football pitch again (having rounded the corner) which is also the helicopter landing zone (however, as far as I am aware only nuns have arrived by chopper here).
Andavadoaka Beach
A walk along the beach or a minor scramble over some rocks takes you towards the village, past the Ark (an old boutre left to waste, we inquired about buying it for an artificial reef but they wanted full price for it) on the right then our old boat shelters. Behind the scrub is the protestant church.
In front we see Club Aloalo building, white and newly decorated with fish along the walls outside, vines and baobabs on the columns and newly constructed steps, on the inside there is a map of Madagascar and the world. The best choice is to cut up to the village from here otherwise you get into ‘poo territory’ a function of the free shitting policy in this culture (but only kids go on the beach, sometimes decorating their packages with shells, whilst the adults are more discrete and go in the forest, though often quite close to their wells!). Behind club Aloalo (heading east), pass on the right Viviennes hut (washing lady, you can often see your smalls hanging out to dry here), pass the path to the protestant church (right).
Through the Village (southern end)
The road bends to the left (north) as you walk through the village, Nassims camion is often parked outside the large building on the right (behind which is one of the village wells). Continuing through the village there are fences on both sides until you get to the first of the epi-bars. On the left (before the first street turning is a stall on the road, this is where you can often find Cynthia (she makes the best cakes in the village), she lives down the small street, as does Mr. Roger (former president and now vice president of Befandefa) and his family in front of the big tree. You will often find James (local staff boat driver) here as well as he is family and has his hut in the same courtyard. Back to the main road, on the right you have the local lady-boys hut (he also makes cakes, but I find them pretty greasy). As far as lady-boys go he is a bit rubbish, looks like a relatively short man, square face and wears the occasional skirt (his favourite is a knee length yellow one, but more often than not he will just be in a sarong). Next to his hut is his epi-bar and then next to that the supermarket (owned by Nassim, local Karani Indian, we also order all our fuel from him). Supermarket has a seating area outside which is a great place to drink beer (THB) and eat peanuts (best place to buy them is opposite 30p for a bag full enough to feed everyone). On the left after the supermarket is a opening in the fence, a sort of gateway, third hut on the left which an outside covered area, a little picket fence and a few hammocks, is where Thomas (local BV staff Dive Master, boat driver, all around great guy) lives.
Through the Village (northern end)
Back on the main street, on the left is the epi-bar Chez Leon, the current favourite hang out on party nights in the village, has lots of wall hangings of girls from the 80’s, his prized possessions. Outside in the evenings you can buy the best samosas in town and sesame brittle. Straight ahead on the road is the BV notice board, under used. Beside the BV board is a path (short-cut) to the catholic mission school. To the right the epi-bar Chez Antoine (much smaller than the others in town). Next to that the Grande Salle, used for plays and local events. That road continues east to out-of-town, but there is a left road which takes you past the catholic mission and church, and eventually the catholic mission primary school, continuing on is the catrholic mission secondary school and the path leading out of town to Velonsak village or the Mobile Orange point.
Opposite the secondary school is the doctors building (though there is rarely anyone there and most use the BV medic when they can). At the end of Andavadoaka beach is the land that will be used by BV for the eco-lodge (when it eventually gets up and running).
Andavadoaka Beach (north – heading south)
Walking back along the beach watching your step you will pass numerous pirogues, children shouting ‘salama vazaha’, a few fish monitoring structures (shady spots), a large building running east is where Angelo (local BV staff currently doing everything possible and especially working on the compressor, most helpful guy ever) and his family live. Further along the beach there is epi-bar Chez Dada (we normally meet the Nahudas there at the beginning of each expedition), is a great place to be in the summer as there is an outside area for drinking and dancing when the heat inside is unbearable. You can cut up to the supermarket and Thomas hut from here. Walk further along the beach and you return to Club Aloalo, and you know where you are, a short step from Coco Beach once again.
Coco Beach
Starting at the restaurant: On your left: my purple hut and all the other staff huts, whilst on the right you have the huts for other guests (stone construction still going ahead after a full year) and Coco Beach staff building with Fara, Heri and Tiuri in the front and Naina at the back, just in front of their building you have the loos (mostly working with running water now that the blue barrels have been constructed to collect pumped water twice a day).
Football Pitch
Continuing down the sand track (north) you pass the football pitch on the right, the light by the path (good satellite phone coverage point), another set of loos on your left for staff, and then the local staff huts as well (Boniface and the goats and chickens). Walking a little further will bring the generator shed on the right (at the side of the football pitch) you can cut across the football pitch to get directly to the village, but we will go via the volunteer huts today. On your left you will pass by the sand dunes and frequent signs ‘sabaka’ (hat), crème masoandra (sun cream) etc.
Volunteer Huts
At the top of the slope the 4 volunteer loos on the right and the goat tap and trough on the left, just behind the Radoko (medic) hut, 5 huts for volunteers (4 with 2 bunk beds and 1 with 2 small beds), one hut for Bic (local BV staff) and another hut for Nahuda’s family (cook at Coco Beach). All huts lean to varying degrees and there are no right angles anywhere, giving lots of character, also a number of hammocks strung up all over the place and one of the best views at Coco Beach of Half moon beach and Andavadoaka rock. At the end of all the accommodation huts is the classroom ‘Nosy Cao’ and opposite that the dive center ‘Bat Cave’ which contains two rooms partitioned for equipment and an outside covered area for kit up and down. The compressor lives at the back of the covered area and nearby a tap and a couple of blue barrels kept full for cleaning equipment.
Nosy Cao
Next to Nosy Cao is Zafi’s hut, he is the guardian (and makes the best pendants for necklaces), and behind his hut is the cliff edge, the coral slope up to the Mary statue (best location for watching the pirogue race, and where weather measurements are taken). Opposite Zafi are the precarious steps down to Andavadoaka beach (with full dive kit can seem daunting at first), on the right is the fisheries cooperative (no longer in service, but where George WCS boat driver resides), and behind that the football pitch again (having rounded the corner) which is also the helicopter landing zone (however, as far as I am aware only nuns have arrived by chopper here).
Andavadoaka Beach
A walk along the beach or a minor scramble over some rocks takes you towards the village, past the Ark (an old boutre left to waste, we inquired about buying it for an artificial reef but they wanted full price for it) on the right then our old boat shelters. Behind the scrub is the protestant church.
In front we see Club Aloalo building, white and newly decorated with fish along the walls outside, vines and baobabs on the columns and newly constructed steps, on the inside there is a map of Madagascar and the world. The best choice is to cut up to the village from here otherwise you get into ‘poo territory’ a function of the free shitting policy in this culture (but only kids go on the beach, sometimes decorating their packages with shells, whilst the adults are more discrete and go in the forest, though often quite close to their wells!). Behind club Aloalo (heading east), pass on the right Viviennes hut (washing lady, you can often see your smalls hanging out to dry here), pass the path to the protestant church (right).
Through the Village (southern end)
The road bends to the left (north) as you walk through the village, Nassims camion is often parked outside the large building on the right (behind which is one of the village wells). Continuing through the village there are fences on both sides until you get to the first of the epi-bars. On the left (before the first street turning is a stall on the road, this is where you can often find Cynthia (she makes the best cakes in the village), she lives down the small street, as does Mr. Roger (former president and now vice president of Befandefa) and his family in front of the big tree. You will often find James (local staff boat driver) here as well as he is family and has his hut in the same courtyard. Back to the main road, on the right you have the local lady-boys hut (he also makes cakes, but I find them pretty greasy). As far as lady-boys go he is a bit rubbish, looks like a relatively short man, square face and wears the occasional skirt (his favourite is a knee length yellow one, but more often than not he will just be in a sarong). Next to his hut is his epi-bar and then next to that the supermarket (owned by Nassim, local Karani Indian, we also order all our fuel from him). Supermarket has a seating area outside which is a great place to drink beer (THB) and eat peanuts (best place to buy them is opposite 30p for a bag full enough to feed everyone). On the left after the supermarket is a opening in the fence, a sort of gateway, third hut on the left which an outside covered area, a little picket fence and a few hammocks, is where Thomas (local BV staff Dive Master, boat driver, all around great guy) lives.
Through the Village (northern end)
Back on the main street, on the left is the epi-bar Chez Leon, the current favourite hang out on party nights in the village, has lots of wall hangings of girls from the 80’s, his prized possessions. Outside in the evenings you can buy the best samosas in town and sesame brittle. Straight ahead on the road is the BV notice board, under used. Beside the BV board is a path (short-cut) to the catholic mission school. To the right the epi-bar Chez Antoine (much smaller than the others in town). Next to that the Grande Salle, used for plays and local events. That road continues east to out-of-town, but there is a left road which takes you past the catholic mission and church, and eventually the catholic mission primary school, continuing on is the catrholic mission secondary school and the path leading out of town to Velonsak village or the Mobile Orange point.
Opposite the secondary school is the doctors building (though there is rarely anyone there and most use the BV medic when they can). At the end of Andavadoaka beach is the land that will be used by BV for the eco-lodge (when it eventually gets up and running).
Andavadoaka Beach (north – heading south)
Walking back along the beach watching your step you will pass numerous pirogues, children shouting ‘salama vazaha’, a few fish monitoring structures (shady spots), a large building running east is where Angelo (local BV staff currently doing everything possible and especially working on the compressor, most helpful guy ever) and his family live. Further along the beach there is epi-bar Chez Dada (we normally meet the Nahudas there at the beginning of each expedition), is a great place to be in the summer as there is an outside area for drinking and dancing when the heat inside is unbearable. You can cut up to the supermarket and Thomas hut from here. Walk further along the beach and you return to Club Aloalo, and you know where you are, a short step from Coco Beach once again.
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